1.2 Name of the element, as used by the community or group concerned
Pathin (পাথিন) Weaving of Hajong: Process and Technique
1.3 Short, maximally informative title (including indication of domain(s))
Pathin (পাথিন) is a wrap-around skirt worn by the women of the Hajong tribe, who reside both in Bangladesh & India. Weaving of pathin is a unique craft which falls under ICH Domain 5.
1.4 Community(ies)/group(s) that recognize the element as part of their cultural heritage
Pathin (পাথিন) Weaving is recognized by the Hajong community as part of their cultural heritage.
1.5 Physical location(s) of the element/how often it is practiced
Hajong are one of the indigenous communities living in Bangladesh. There is a very limited number of Hajong who have continued weaving 'pathin' in Haluaghat, Netrokona, Kalmakanda, Durgapur and Sunamganj areas of Bangladesh. At present, though, the rate of Pathin weaving is continuously declining. Most Bangladeshi Hajong do not weave 'pathin' now. They purchase 'pathin' from India.
1.6 Short description (max. 200words)
Hajong are one of the distinct indigenous communities living in Bangladesh. They have their own cultural heritage. Hajong women wear their traditional dress ‘pathin’. The ‘pathin’ worn by Hajong women is a thick cloth woven in a combination of yarns of different colors, three and a half cubits long and two and a half cubits wide. Hajong women wear ‘pathin’ as a garment wrapped around their chest . In winter, Hajong women wear a kind of belt called 'banang' when they plant saplings in aman rice fields.
Yarn, weaving machine, khatni are used as raw materials for making ‘pathin’. Hajong weavers buy white yarn from the market and soak it in water for two days. Then, they clean the yarn with chemicals. Next, two weavers put yarn on the bamboo and squeeze out the water. Now, water and paint are boiled together in a large pot. Starch is added to the yarn. Then, the yarn is dried in the sun and is cut with the help of a spinning wheel and finally it is used in the ‘waist-loom’. They make songs and dances in Hajong language while weaving ‘pathin’.
Women in the upper class wear a long ‘pathin’ which falls down to the floor while women in the lower class wear a shorter ’pathin’ reaches only uptp the ankle. The pathin is a horizontally striped, colourful, rectangular piece of cloth with alternate layers of different colours between red stripes and thick horizontal borders called chapa. The stripes of the Pathin are similar to skirts of other Himalayan tribes like Bodos, Tamangs and Bhutanese. The ‘pathin’ may be the primitive form of the Tibetan Pangden. Many scholars consider Hajongs to be primitive kacharies, who inhabited Hajo in ancient times. ‘Pathins’ are woven in traditional looms known as 'Sipni Bana' and 'Sal Bana'. It is operated with hands and does not require the use of feet.
1.7 Domain of the element (select one or more/suggest alternative domain)
2. Characteristics of the element
2.1 Practitioners(s)/performer(s): roles, age, gender, social status, and/or professional category etc)
We sought the help of Shephali Hajong of the Hajong community. She is a teacher. She is 35 years old and make a living by teaching. She is a married Hajong woman. Her mother used to weave pathin in her spare time. Though she cannot weave, Shephali has expressed an interest in learning Pathin weaving.
2.2 Other tradition bearers (individuals/groups and their roles)
The Hajong community weaves pathins on their own looms and perform dances and songs in the Hajong language while weaving.
The words "Pathin" and "Bana" come from Sanskrit. They feel comfortable using "Bana" in Hajong language.Hajong is spoken by about 175,000 people in Assam, Meghalaya, Arunachal Pradesh and West Bengal in India, and in Mymensingh District in Bangladesh. It is considered an Indo-Aryan language with a Tibeto-Burman substrate. The old Hajong language (Khati Hajong) was a Tibeto-Burman language possibly related to Garo and Bodo, but the language got mixed with Assamese and Bengali. Hajong is written with the Latin and Assamese scripts in India. In Bangladesh the Bengali script is generally used.
2.4 Associated tangible elements ( if any)
The waist-loom/loin-loom/backstrap loom is used to weave the 'pathin'.The loin loom, common to hill tribes of the northeast, also referred to as back strap or body tension loom, is one of the oldest devices for weaving cloth. These age-old looms are simple in construction and easy of operation. They are cheap too. They have neither permanent fixtures nor heavy frames and so are easily portable. They can be attached to any fixed structure such as a wall or a tree.
The weaver sits on the ground or floor, leans back against a wide leather/rubber strap which holds the threads taut. The weaver maintains the tension on the warps by pressing the foot on a firm support on the ground. The loin loom weaving is an extremely taxing and slow process and one cannot weave long at one go.
2.5 Associated intangible elements (if any)
Since the Hajong associate singing and dancing with the art of 'pathin' weaving, these practices are also threatened with the diminishing of the art of 'pathin' weaving.
2.6 How are women and people of other genders associated with this ICH element
Hajong women have been weaving 'pathin' as part of their traditional cultural practice. Young Hajong women weave 'pathin' while sitting at leisure.
2.7 Division of labour during the practice of aforementioned ICH element
While Hajong may assist by making the looms and gathering raw material for weaving i.e. yarn, color, etc, division of labor is rarely observed. 'Pathin' weaving is an art of Hajong women.
2.8 Customary practices governing access to the element or to aspects of it
There is no problem of access.
2.9 Modes of transmission
The art of 'pathin' weaving is transmitted from one generation of women to another.
2.10 Organizations concerned (non-governmental organizations and others)
Some NGOs are working towards safeguarding of Hajong cultural practices i.e. ACEEPH.
3. State of the element (viability)
3.1 Threats to the enactment (if any)
Though Hajong of India have preserved, intact, the art of weaving 'pathing', it is almost lost within Hajong in Bangladesh, due to cheap procurement from India and lack of raw material in Bangladesh.
3.2 Threats to the transmission (if any)
Some opportunistic businessmen, engaged in cross-border trading of 'pathin' are creating reluctance among Hajong young women in towards learning the art of loin-weaving which is used to weave 'pathing'..
3.3 Threat to associated tangible elements and resources (if any)
Raw material for 'pathin' weaving i.e. yarn, color, are not available in Bangladesh. So, is the art of making the loin-loom.
3.4 Viability of associated intangible elements (if any)
The Hajong community, especially women have a unique relationship with loin-weaving. It provides them with a special identity. But for various reasons it is under threat today.
3.5 Safeguarding measures in place (if any)
The ACEEPH organization has already been able to show documentaries on the Hajong community through social media, hold discussion meetings with members of the Hajong community every week. Hajong young women are being attracted to the art of loin-weaving. Hajong young people are expected to be attracted if Cultural Centers for Indigenous Communities, established by the Govt of Bangladesh, provide them with proper training. It would be a sight to behold on social media, such as YouTube, to attract Hajong young women to weave their own looms in their spare time.
4. Data gathering/documentation, Consent and preparation of inventory entries
4.1 Consent of community/group/individuals concerned for data collection with a view to inventorying
Verbal consent was obtained during the conversation with Shephali Hajong of the Hajong community. She assured verifiability and gave information about 'pathin' with great pleasure. She signed a white paper on a very ordinary mobile phone and sent it to the ethnographer through Sakar Mustafa who heads ACEEPH.
4.2 Restrictions, if any, on use of data collected
No restrictions were found.
5. Resource Person
5.1 Persons/groups, including community representatives
Information provided by Shephali Hajong, via Sakar Mustafa, Assistant Professor and Head of Department, Department of Folklore, National Poet Kazi Nazrul Islam University, Trishal, Mymensingh; and compiled by Mahfuza Arifa Nila; email: [email protected]
5.2 Date(s) and place(s) of data gathering
Date : Place(s) : Mymensingh
6. Safeguarding techniques
6.1 Existing safeguarding techniques in the community for the safeguarding of the ICH element
Creating awareness amongst Hajong women by NGOs and Govt of Bangladesh Cultural Centres for Indigenous Communities.
6.2 Suggestions for safeguarding of the ICH element from the community
1. Providing training,
2. Providing access to raw-material
7. References to literature, discography, audiovisual materials or archives
8. Modalities for updating the information contained in the inventory entry
8.1 Persons/groups, including community representatives, who compiled the inventory entry
Mahfuza Arifa Nila of ACEEPH will be supporting the Hajong Community.
8.2 Consent of community/group/individuals concerned for data collection with a view to inventorying
Consent from Shephali Hajong.
8.3 Date of community consent to include the entry on an inventory
2020-07-18
8.4 Present condition of the cultural element
Threatened with extinction
9. Community suggestions
(a)Brief description of suggestions for safeguarding of the element by community members/experts/holders, if any
For revival of 'pathin' weaving, the Hajong community need 1) retraining, 2) loans from banks, 3) ensure round-the-clock electricity, and finally 3) government patronage to attract young Hajong women towards 'pathin' weaving, These measures will not only return a cultural practice unique to Hajong women, it will also help to modernize the 'pathin; weaving industry.
(b)Brief description of restrictions on use of data collected, if any
Due to COVID19 pandemic situation all data-collection was carried out via cell-phone ethnography.